Joinery for Kitchen Cabinet Faceframes Part 1
Routing 5/8 '' deep mortises in the ends of the rails for 3 faceframes.(Three passes 3/32'', 3/8 '' and then 5/8'') The 1 x 2 is not wide enough for plate joining biscuits so I am using loose tenons. Am replacing 3 cabinets above the kitchen countertop with homemade cabinets. Fixture is made out of 1' by 1' 1/2'' thick plywood and 1x2. Used a 1x3 to set the width for the center space at 2 1/2 ''. The 2 outer 1x2 enables the fixture to be clamped to the router table fence. Do not use a router bit larger than 1/4, tried my 3/8 and kicked back too much. Made 2 more for true 2" stock and 1x3
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Tagged with: cabinet • Joinery • kitchen • Mortise • Tenon • Woodworking
dont think thats the best way 2 do that mate.
I have improved the fixture since (Do NOT use any bit larger than 1/4″). Chamfered the inner channel boards for better grasp. Also attached a piece to the inner boards parallel to the table 1/8′ above the table. I admit this safely works with rail stock 10″ or more in length – Do not use too short rail stock.
Thanks
Tom
Hi couldnt you just use pocket hole screws on the face frame its not like your going to see them and it would be quicker for you in the long run,just an idea.
I used pocket screws for a 2 drawer notebook PC desk built after the kitchen project. Worked well with plate joining biscuits to align the panels and the pocket screws to reinforce the joints.
The kitchen remodel was a one time project – time was not a factor.
Nothing wrong with mortice and tenon joints, but for kitchen cabinet face frames, I think it’s a bit of overkill. With stand alone furniture, the piece can be moved about and jiggled over time, and potentially cause the screws to loosen, especially if not glued. Kitchen cabinets are fastened in and shouldn’t move.