I want a 48" bathroom vanity, I NEED it to have the drawers on the left hand side, and I need it to be 0 or less. Hopefully much less. I have a sink and I have countertop.

I've found that 48" vanities are rare, and the ones out there are usually ridiculously fancy and overpriced. It's nearly impossible to find ANY vanities with drawers on the left, and if I can find any they are either smaller than 48" or ridiculously fancy and overpriced.

So I thought about getting a 24" kitchen base cabinet and a 24" kitchen drawer base cabinet and putting them together to make a 48" sink base. Are there any drawbacks to this?

Hi!!
My next project is to update the kitchen cabinets. I plan to remove the trim strips, strip the carcases and restain and varnish the face frames. I will construct my own new doors and drawer fronts (perhaps the whole drawer). New hardware, different style doors (more of a craftsman style) and new color should look pretty good.

It is the sides of the cabinets that concern me. I don't think they are even oak. I think the cabinet maker used fir plywood and an oak stain. In any case, they are pretty scroungy looking. They are also not perfectly flat. I am somewhat distrustful of the thin veneers on the market. I can resaw my own veneer and have an 18" Rikon bandsaw for just that purpose. If I were to resaw a bunch of quartersawn oak into 8" wide and 3/32" thick strips, how would I stick them to the sides of the cabinets with any expectation of them staying put. Also, with wide strips of wood over plywood, what do I do about wood movement. Will my thick veneer buckle?

Finally, how do I smooth out the surface of the cabinet to create a flat gluing surface?

So, 4 questions:

1. Should I be so intimidated by the stick on veneers on the market?
2. How would I attach 3/32" veneer to the sides of cabinets without uninstalling them.
3. What about wood movement in thick veneer?
4. How do I create a flat gluing surface.

many thanks,
STEPHEN
P.S. I taught Industrial Arts for 8 years but never certified in woodworking. I was a plastics and metals kind of guy. I did get used to having those wonderful shops around for my own projects and have acquired some tools over the years.

I have a small kitchen 8ft x 13ft with 9.5ft ceiling in a home built in 1926. I am looking at white wood cabinets with inset doors/drawers and a farm house sink. I like the idea of the bottom wall cabinets to be 36" and then top them with 18" cabinets with glass inserts. Finished with crown molding to match the rest of the house. My question is...Since the space is so small should the cabinets go to all the way to ceiling, or would it make it look like a library?

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A friend of mine had his kitchen remodeled and the wiring for the cabinets is visible in the back of the cabinets. It is also stapled to the side and the back of the cabinet and runs to the bottom corner to the recessed lights. I told him electrical wiring should not be stapled and not visible. I have never opened a cabinet with exposed wiring. Not only that but the molding is not secured to the external cabinet. The doors on the front also have a 1/4" or so gap when closed. I said the doors need to be flush, almost touching. Not a gap like Dave Lettermans teeth.

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I'm remodeling an older home, and the space for the kitchen cabinets is limited to a depth of 22". There are doorways that begin at the 22" point, so I can't use the usual 24" depth cabinets. Any ideas for creating what I need? Thanks!