The cabinets will be next to each other so the screws will not show, except for the last cabinet that is exposed. I will also use gorilla glue to help reinforce the joints.

can these be painted or stained? If so with what? any ideas on brands or type I can use? MANY thanks!

areas when you wipe the cabinets. It spreads when you wipe it. I have had my cabinets in the kitchen & bathroom for 8 years now & they still look like new. I have the same problem with the painted Indigo cabinets in my bathroom. I don't dare use any soap, it will make it worse! I hope that you can help me. I have tried quite a few polishes including Guardsman. Thank you for your help. Josephine

Hi!!
My next project is to update the kitchen cabinets. I plan to remove the trim strips, strip the carcases and restain and varnish the face frames. I will construct my own new doors and drawer fronts (perhaps the whole drawer). New hardware, different style doors (more of a craftsman style) and new color should look pretty good.

It is the sides of the cabinets that concern me. I don't think they are even oak. I think the cabinet maker used fir plywood and an oak stain. In any case, they are pretty scroungy looking. They are also not perfectly flat. I am somewhat distrustful of the thin veneers on the market. I can resaw my own veneer and have an 18" Rikon bandsaw for just that purpose. If I were to resaw a bunch of quartersawn oak into 8" wide and 3/32" thick strips, how would I stick them to the sides of the cabinets with any expectation of them staying put. Also, with wide strips of wood over plywood, what do I do about wood movement. Will my thick veneer buckle?

Finally, how do I smooth out the surface of the cabinet to create a flat gluing surface?

So, 4 questions:

1. Should I be so intimidated by the stick on veneers on the market?
2. How would I attach 3/32" veneer to the sides of cabinets without uninstalling them.
3. What about wood movement in thick veneer?
4. How do I create a flat gluing surface.

many thanks,
STEPHEN
P.S. I taught Industrial Arts for 8 years but never certified in woodworking. I was a plastics and metals kind of guy. I did get used to having those wonderful shops around for my own projects and have acquired some tools over the years.

I've deceided to paint my kitchen cabinets. They were painted a glossy white by the previous owner. I don't know if it is latez or oil paint, it has a shine to it. Can I paint over it or do I have to sand them first. If so, what kind of sand paper should I use. I bought latez paint in a beautiful sage green. White cabinets and 3 kids just don't cut it. I want to paint either today or tommorow.

Hi, can i use lysol antibacterial kitchen cleaner on my kitchen cabinets (they're painted white) It says on the back that I can use it on stove, counter, sinks it doesnt say that i can use it on wooden cabinets but i doesnt say that I cannot use it either

I was thinking of polyurethane finish. Would this work and what kind? I know there is water and oil based. Will that work with the type of paint I have or should I use something else. I painted my cabinets white. Thanks!

Some new and better cabinets are designed with revolving shelves in corners of cabinets but I don't have that kind. My lower cabinet has a 9" wide opening near a corner and next to my kitchen stove with most of the storage (width as deep as the table is wide) located to the left of that opening. Even putting things straight in is hard: I must get on my knees to even reach in. Cabinet over that is just as bad (only not as deep). When I was thin and agile, I used to partly crawl into the lower shelf to organize and take things in & out. I'd climb & reach into the upper unit for stuff. Retired from work now: Recently cleared out upper cabinets and rediscovered stuff I forgot I had 30 years ago that were covered with a layer of kitchen grease. Have any ideas rather than demolition and replace?

I have some left over exterior paint, can I paint my kitchen cabinets with that paint? What will happen if I do?