Comments on: What type of paint finish should I use for kitchen cabinets? http://kitchencabinetdesigninfo.com/what-type-of-paint-finish-should-i-use-for-kitchen-cabinets.html Discover the important options you must consider before you remodel your kitchen. Thu, 10 May 2012 13:45:10 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1 By: Allison1888 http://kitchencabinetdesigninfo.com/what-type-of-paint-finish-should-i-use-for-kitchen-cabinets.html/comment-page-1#comment-701 Allison1888 Mon, 07 Jun 2010 13:16:01 +0000 http://kitchencabinetdesigninfo.com/what-type-of-paint-finish-should-i-use-for-kitchen-cabinets.html#comment-701 I agree that varnish is difficult to paint over. I you do try it, here is some advice on repainting cabinets. http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/building/cabinets-countertops/repainting-kitchen-cabinets.php I agree that varnish is difficult to paint over. I you do try it, here is some advice on repainting cabinets.

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/building/cabinets-countertops/repainting-kitchen-cabinets.php

]]> By: Taf http://kitchencabinetdesigninfo.com/what-type-of-paint-finish-should-i-use-for-kitchen-cabinets.html/comment-page-1#comment-700 Taf Mon, 07 Jun 2010 13:16:01 +0000 http://kitchencabinetdesigninfo.com/what-type-of-paint-finish-should-i-use-for-kitchen-cabinets.html#comment-700 I would really consider buying new cabinet doors. It is really poor painting practice to paint over varnish. Paint does not get a really good grip on varnish and also it is rigid and the top coat chips easily from it. So as a professional decorator I simply don't do it full stop. If you insist, then at least abrade the entire surface of the varnish with a P120 grade or finer paper. This keys the surface to give the new paint something to grip on to. Dust down but do not wash the abraded surface as you awant those scratches sharp and not rounded off. Normal primers which rely upon soaking into bare wood do not work well on varnished wood because they lay on the top. Therefore, you need to use a special primer like Bullseye 1-2-3, a water-based product you'll get from a proper decorators merchants. These primers claim to glue themselves to the surface - however it is still an undeal compromise. Bullseye 1-2-3 is an easy paint to work with. Leave it to cure overnight before applying oil-based paints afterwards. After you have abraded and primed, I personally would apply one undercoat and two satin finish coats. Dulux satinwood is a very nice paint to work with. And yes you can use oil-based paints over cured water-based ones. Use a brush and a 4 inch foam roller (foam is not really for oil-based paints,but it works well for thinner coats). If you were slapping a job out and the finish didn't matter then you would apply paint at a normal thickness, perhaps a little heavy. If you want a better finish, then you have to stretch the paint out with a roller - the thinner coats are flatter. Hence you cannot skimp on coats and may need to do more. I would really consider buying new cabinet doors.

It is really poor painting practice to paint over varnish. Paint does not get a really good grip on varnish and also it is rigid and the top coat chips easily from it. So as a professional decorator I simply don’t do it full stop. If you insist, then at least abrade the entire surface of the varnish with a P120 grade or finer paper. This keys the surface to give the new paint something to grip on to. Dust down but do not wash the abraded surface as you awant those scratches sharp and not rounded off.

Normal primers which rely upon soaking into bare wood do not work well on varnished wood because they lay on the top. Therefore, you need to use a special primer like Bullseye 1-2-3, a water-based product you’ll get from a proper decorators merchants. These primers claim to glue themselves to the surface – however it is still an undeal compromise. Bullseye 1-2-3 is an easy paint to work with. Leave it to cure overnight before applying oil-based paints afterwards.

After you have abraded and primed, I personally would apply one undercoat and two satin finish coats. Dulux satinwood is a very nice paint to work with. And yes you can use oil-based paints over cured water-based ones.

Use a brush and a 4 inch foam roller (foam is not really for oil-based paints,but it works well for thinner coats). If you were slapping a job out and the finish didn’t matter then you would apply paint at a normal thickness, perhaps a little heavy. If you want a better finish, then you have to stretch the paint out with a roller – the thinner coats are flatter. Hence you cannot skimp on coats and may need to do more.

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